Stories

Chicken Gassi

This creamy and fragrant chicken curry from coastal Karnataka is best paired with rotti or neer dosas.

By the kitchen collective

A serving of chicken curry, rice and rotti, in individual shallow silver dishes.

Setting The Table: Stories from India’s Food Cultures

About the Chef

the kitchen collective (tkc) is a women-led restaurant and training centre in Sangolda, Goa. They re-create traditional recipes from the coastal belt of Maharashtra, Goa, Karnataka and Kerala, while fostering a space where local women learn how to run satellite kitchens and serve customers.

Introduction

Kori gassi or chicken gassi is a chicken curry from Karnataka’s coastal belt, particularly associated with the city of Mangaluru. The dish is characterised by a rich spice paste made with Byadgi chillies, coconut and whole spices, which is simmered with chicken and finished with coconut milk.

Like most Mangalorean curries, kori gassi relies on deep red Byadgi chillies to provide vibrancy and moderate heat. The curry is traditionally served with rotti, a crisp rice-based side dish that softens as it absorbs the curry, though it is equally enjoyed with neer dosa, set dosa or ghee rice.

Ingredients

Yield 4 servings

1 kg chicken thigh fillets, cut into medium-sized (approx. 5 cm by 4 cm) pieces
½ tsp turmeric powder
1 tsp salt, or to taste

For the spice paste

10 g tamarind (See ‘Notes’)
25 dried Byadgi chillies, stalks and seeds removed
3 Tbsp coriander seeds
1 Tbsp cumin seeds
1 tsp fenugreek seeds
1 Tbsp poppy seeds
2 Tbsp black peppercorns, lightly pounded
1-inch cinnamon bark
2 green cardamom pods
3 cloves
50 g / approx. ¾ cup grated copra (dried coconut)
50 g / approx. ⅓ cup fresh coconut slivers
½ tsp turmeric powder
15 g / 1 tbsp ghee
100 g / approx. 1 medium red onion, finely chopped
15 cloves garlic, whole and unpeeled

For the curry

105 g ghee (45g / 3 Tbsp for frying onion, curry leaves and chicken; 60 g / 4 Tbsp for frying the spice paste)
50 g / approx. ½ medium red onion, finely chopped
25 curry leaves (about 2 sprigs)
500 ml coconut milk
1 tsp salt, or to taste
3 tsp lemon juice, or to taste

For the garnish

2 Tbsp 30 g ghee
50 g / approx. ½ medium red onion, thinly sliced

What you’ll need

Sharp knife

Chopping board

Large bowl

Flat skillet

Heavy-bottomed pan or kadhai

Frying pan

Suggested substitute ingredients and instructions can be found in ‘Notes’ at the end of the recipe.

Instructions

Place the chicken in a large bowl. Add turmeric powder and salt. Mix well until all the pieces are evenly coated. Cover and refrigerate for 10–15 minutes while preparing the spice paste.

For the spice paste

Soak the tamarind in ¼ cup warm water and set aside to soften.

Place a flat skillet on low heat. Add the Byadgi chillies and dry-roast for 1–2 minutes, turning frequently until fragrant and slightly darkened. Remove from the pan and set aside. (See ‘Notes’)

Add the coriander seeds to the skillet and roast for 1–2 minutes until aromatic. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Add the cumin seeds, fenugreekseeds and poppy seeds. Roast for 30–60 seconds, stirring continuously to prevent burning. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Add the lightly pounded black peppercorns and roast for 20–30 seconds, until fragrant. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Add the cinnamon bark, cardamom pods and cloves to the skillet. Roast for 30 seconds, stirring continuously, until aromatic. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Add the grated copra (dried coconut) and fresh coconut slivers to the skillet. Sprinkle over the turmeric powder and roast for 2–3 minutes, stirring continuously until it appears lightly golden and nutty in aroma. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly.

Return the skillet to low heat and add the . Once melted, add the and . Cook for 5–7 minutes, stirring frequently until the onions soften and begin to caramelise, and the garlic skins darken slightly. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.